Notre Dame & Les Catacombes

Even though we are literally a three minute walk from the famous Notre Dame cathedral, we'd not gone in until this morning, though Erica and I visited this beautiful spot when we were here 11 years ago.  The enormous cathedral is located on Ile de la Cite, a small island in the middle of the Seine that has been the spiritual center of Paris for over 2000 years.  Cathedral construction started in 1163 and there are no less than 37 side chapels.  It is most famous for its flying buttresses, stained glass and being such a fine example of gothic architecture.  Unfortunately, no hunchbacks were seen.  We passed on a more detailed tour due to lack of morning enthusiasm from the kids but did enjoy a nice stroll through the main cathedral.

Big, big, big.

One of the two 13th century rose windows.  I'd guess it's about 50 feet in diameter.  Indescribably beautiful and detailed.  How do they keep it clean?

Some tired boys and therefore a tired dad.

Quick stop after some arm-twisting for a very large mint chocolate chip meringue we'd seen last week and our daily baguettes.  On the way to the boulangerie/patisserie, Sully basked once again in the glory of his adoring Chinese paparazzi with their cameras and hugs.

"Stop!  This here is the Empire of the Dead"

Without a doubt, one of the highlights of this grand adventure will be our trip today into the Paris Catacombes.  One truly bizarre but fascinating story and visit.  By the late 18th century, a large number of the Parisian cemeteries had been filled up.  This presented a large problem.  The powers that be therefore decided to empty out a large number of cemeteries and move the bodies underground into former rock quarries, creating Les Catacombes.  In this way, cemeteries again have space for new customers.  Around 6 million (!) Parisians were moved in midnight ceremonies to the Catacombes.  The most fascinating fact to me was that religious leaders not only approved but even went so far as to consecrate the sites.  We waited two hours in line (our longest wait, by far, of the visit) to see a section of the ossuarie.  They only allow 200 people at a time in this particular section.

We were a little concerned about how the kids would react to such an impressively gruesome sight.  Sully was initially a bit nervous but most importantly didn't require being carried through the 2 km trek.  I really only noticed seeing skulls, femurs and tibias.  Not sure where the rest of the remains went.  Couldn't stop thinking about the people whose job it was to move all the remains and then to stack them so evenly, almost artistically.  I've never seen anything like this.

The remains were all neatly organized into walls or columns.  Sections were clearly labeled with the cemetery from which they came and the date.  

I am still in awe of just how many remains there are.  At first it was shocking, triggering emotional responses.  Then, we we kept walking and walking and walking with more and more bones.  I'm sure I saw more tibeal plateaus in an hour than any orthopedic surgeon has seen in their career.  This was a sight that will remain with me forever.

There are many miles of underground tunnels under the city streets (and under the metro) but this is the only officially sanctioned tour.  Apparently several bars have underground rooms and there are planned and unplanned parties in the tunnels.  I heard there is even an unofficial library.  Will have to wait until the next trip.

A quick detour to the nearby Cimetiere Montparnasse (is there a theme today?) to grab another geocache. Unfortunately, the section we needed to visit had just closed and our cachers were sorely disappointed but not exceedingly bitter.  Sully tremendously enjoyed watching the guard ring the bell to signal the closing and threw a fit when we (God forbid) left before he was done ringing the bell.  Two minutes later, with the bell ringing complete, order was restored.  Quick metro ride home with more Extra Pita Grec sandwiches for the boys while E & M went out to fondue.  Why they wanted to spoil a perfectly fantastic day by eating melted cheese I don't understand.  Tomorrow is our last full day here and we plan to spend it taking in some views of and from Le Tour Eiffel.  

- N