Home again.

It's my first time blogging from bed at home and it's nowhere near as exciting.  Not too painful packing up last night and we were out the door at 7 am.  Walked a block and a half to a stop for the Aerobus which gets you to the airport quickly without having to schlep all your bags very far.  

We were all pretty awake, ready for the long trip home.

Sully's new toy airplane, part of spending all of our Euro coins.

The flights home (through Atlanta) could not have gone much smoother although it was pretty exhausting for all.  Long day of following the sun west.  About 22 hours door to door.  M slept for maybe 45 minutes and Henry not at all on the plane.  They both crashed hard on the Max ride home.  Kids are all in bed, asleep and it's not yet 9 pm, though my laptop clock now says 5:56 am.  Time for sleep.  I'm sure there will be more time for closing thoughts tomorrow.

-N

Fundacio Joan Miro & La Playa: Last day in Barca!

One last hurrah through this energetic city today.  I got out early (and by myself) and nearly opened up the Fundacio Joan Miro on Montjuic.  It's a museum honoring the native Barcelonan Joan Miro.  He was involved in its design and donated many works to the museum.  It also houses art by several of his friends and contemporaries.  A portion of the museum is devoted to showcasing young modern artists.  It was all a treat, of course replete with surprises.  

The coolest and most dangerous piece I saw today was by Miro's friend and colleague, the American Alexander Calder, a sculptor whose art is all over the States.  Above is a sculpture he created for a big Spanish exposition in the early 20th century, a fountain.  As I was watching it, something just didn't seem quite right about the water that was flowing with a strange color and patterns of flow.  Only then did it dawn on me that the "Mercury Fountain" really has flowing mercury!  How toxic and awesome.  This is why it's in a completely enclosed room.  I had no clue anything like this existed.  Apologies for the non-detailed photo but this was a stealthy shot from my phone, as photos are forbidden in the museum.  I couldn't help myself.

One of Miro's more unique sculptures, maybe?

"The diamond smiles at twilight", a painting from the late 1940s, during his "wild" phase, which was apparently influenced heavily by the second world war.  "For me to gain freedom is to gain simplicity" was attributed to him in the later part of his career.  Good words to live by, in my opinion.  Maybe this will inspire us to clean out the basement at home.

Erica and the kids met me for lunch at the cafe in the museum and strolled through the adjacent sculpture garden.  Our 14th anniversary is today, by the way, and it's been a great one.

We took the crew for one last visit to the beach at Barceloneta, where three hours flew right by.  The kids want to move here, but because of the beach and Tibidabo, the amusement park on the hill.  Maybe we will all be convinced?  We're feeling inspired now and imaging a life in Europe for a while.  Who knows?  Barcelona is indeed a beautiful city filled with sunlight, art and energy.  Here is a sculpture garden on the way to the Metro from the beach.  A fine view for our last picture from Spain.  I'm feeling nostalgic as we're readying to head out to the airport in the morning.  The 10 hour flight from Barcelona to Atlanta should be an adventure in and of itself.  We are crossing our fingers.

-N

Hospital de Sant Pau, la playa & Damm Lemon

As we were up pretty late last night, we had another late start to the day.  It's safe to say we're on Barcelona time.  Maryann snuck out earlier this morning without waking anyone up, to the airport and off to Germany.  We took the bus northeast and ate our lunch in yet another park.  There are so many and we've seen a large proportion, or so it seems.  We played for a while with this paddleball set that seems to be all the rage here.  The checkout lady at the store this morning gave it to our local celebrity, Sullivan, apparently because he was being so helpful.  Amazing, especially since a few short hours later I really wanted to tape him to a light pole and keep on walking.  He was not at his finest today and was the source of some frustration.  I keep reminding myself that he's four and he's done remarkably well on this trip overall though he's certainly had his moments.

A primary reason for our trip out today was to visit the famous modernista building, Hospital de Sant Pau.  Built in the early 20th century by Lluis Domenech i Montaner, it is a stunning example of the wave of modern architectural expansion at that time.  As was typical of our day today, though, it was closed for renovation and we could only drool from outside the fence.  

I did stop in for a little emergencia training across the street. 

Quick shot from the bus of a common cycletrack set up here:  two bike lanes in the middle of the street, protected by space and raised curbs.  We've seen plenty of signs in the metro stations that say something to the effect of "Metro + Bike = decreased carbon dioxide emissions".  Also, several folding bikes that are taken up and down the stairs into the metro stations and onto the trains.  No bike hangers on the trains like we have at home.

Three more successful geocache finds today = some happy (& freckled) kids.

After a siesta at home and dinner, we hit the beach for a late evening session.  This time to Barceloneta, which is a quick Metro ride from us.  We arrived around 8:15 or so and most of the crowds had cleared out though several more came to swim while we were there.  We LOVE this weather and warm water.  More shells to drag home, as our supplies must be dwindling.

While the kids frolicked in the water, we kicked back and drank some more Damm Lemon.  Yes, it's a 60/40 beer/lemonade mix and it's great in warm weather.  Almost like hefeweizen and lemonade in a can together.

Watching the dramatic sky and skyline behind us.  Since when does the sun not set out over the water?  Frank Gehry's "Peix d'Or" is in the lower/right part of this shot.  It is pretty darn cool, day or night.

As everyone was quite happy, we stayed late.  Dragged them away sometime between 9:30 and 10, de-sanded them, walked back along the beach and some beautiful and inviting restaurants to the metro.  Home again and some late bedtimes.  Tomorrow is our last full day here though Sullivan now wants to move to Spain and live in the W Hotel on the beach.  Where has the month gone?

-N

Tibidabo & Picasso

As the end of our month-long vacation is nearing, we are trying to make the most of the few precious remaining days before it's back home, to work, school, routines and schedules.  The kids had been begging to return to the highest point in the city, Tibidabo, the site of a visit of ours earlier.  We metroed a few stops to Placa de Catalunya then hopped aboard the "Tibibus" for a trip up the hill to the park.  The kids, of course, weren't enamored with the views but interested in returning when all of the rides were open.  Today was our day, while Erica and Maryann went off for some more cultural enlightenment (see below).

I honestly cannot imagine an amusement park with a more inspirational view.  The roller coaster, Muntanya Russa was pretty cool too.  Next time I'll open my eyes and have a good look.  M & H each had 4-5 rides.

There are about 25 rides total, all nestled on the hillside at 6 different levels.  To me, half the fun was sorting through what each ride was about, as some things were quite different and a bit of a throwback to us.  We did just about everything except the "Hotel Krueger" as seen on the sign board above.  Apparently a horror "spectacle".  I did enjoy watching M & H navigate lines and ride instructions from the workers, all while having no idea in hell what they were trying to tell them.  Some useful perspective for them to have.

This is "Alaska", a sweet and gentle log flume-like ride complete with ball-balancing seals, penguins and polar bears.  Henry and Sully enjoy the thrill.

Here our two older monkeys (with their arms outstretched, to the right) enjoy "Diavolo".  Simply watching them spin around made me dizzy.  Followed by the unique "Castell Misterios", a horror/fun house that may have emotionally scarred Sully for life.  I escaped with some rug burns on my elbows and knees suffered while extricating him from a long, crowded, spinning carpet-lined cylinder.  Soon after this we had treats:  ice creams for kids and another local "Estrella Damm" beer for the dad.

Here the view of the city and the sea is enjoyed by all, at least for a nanosecond.  We did dream about a long, fast zip line all the way to the beach.

Sully waits on "La Granota" with a few friends.

Before heading for home we visited the Museu D'Automats, a fascinating collection of old automated machines.  Sure I liked the roller coaster and skiing scenes but it was interesting that the first one the kids were dying to show me was the "French Execution" during which a beheading occurs set to lively period music.  The mechanics of some of the machines (nearly 100 years old) were intriguing but equally so were cultural themes of the times.  In one of the machines, several African people were playing music, as were very similar-looking gorillas in the same scene.  Just not something that would pass the political correctness standards of today.

Without too much difficulty I was able to convince/coerce the crew back to the Tibibus for a ride down the hill.  After some dinner we met Erica and Maryann at the Font Magica for another light, sound and water show amongst the throngs.

-N

Once again today my mom and I snuck off for some adult time, this time at the Museu Picasso.  Picasso grew up and studied here in Barcelona before he moved to Paris in 1904.  He helped to found this museum in 1964 (the only museum devoted to his artwork that opened while he was still alive) and donated a lot of his work to the museum.  The museum covers most of his life, but focuses on his early work and influences.   This is another spot where I visited 20 years ago, and it has grown and changed since then.

It has been really fun and special to see all of the Barcelona sights that I saw with my sister when we were just out of college, now again with my mom.  After the Picasso museum, we tried to see the Miro museum in Montjuic, but it had closed early on Sunday.  Instead we walked around the Olympic stadium and surrounding area, including the other Olympic swimming venue.

The final piece in the tour of Barcelona for my mom before she leaves tomorrow morning was the Font Magica (magic fountain) that we had visited last week.  We met Nik and the kids there after they returned from Tibidabo.  We watched three sets of music at the fountain (the fountain and lights are choreographed to the music): the first was movie music, including themes from Titanic, Gone with the Wind and Star Wars, the second was music from Disney movies, sung in either Catalan or Spanish, and the last was... 80's music, including Video Killed the Radio Star and Forever Young.  Loved it!  As Nik said, you can't make this stuff up!

It is sad to say good bye to my mom; we have had a great time with her here.  We will see her in two weeks back in Portland though, after she returns from her travels.  

Not sure what tomorrow will bring, but we definitely need to swim in the Mediterranean again before we leave.

- E

Yesterday in Parc Guell; Gram and Sully among the Gaudi columns.

Parc Guell palm trees and bougainvillea.

Our apartment building; we are the 2 balconies on the 4th floor.

Yet more Barcelona Adventure

 Without a doubt, today was the most ideal day that we've had, weather-wise.  I struck out on my own for a dose of bliss for my aesthetic senses while Erica and Maryann took the kids out adventuring.  Below are a few of my favorite shots from two of Gaudi's masterpieces:  Casa Batllo & Palau Guell, two residences designed for wealthy clients and their families.  They both appealed to me for many reasons:  they're stunning, highly ergonometric, simple yet whimsical, colorful and they borrow themes and structure from biology, which is a recurring theme of Gaudi's.  On another note, Gaudi is credited with being a proponent of sustainability well before his time, with recycling of materials from older buildings as an integral part of his style.

Casa Batllo:  Living room light fixture and ceiling.

Casa Batllo:  Rib-like parabolic arches and inviting spaces.  Who wouldn't want to live here?

Casa Batllo:  Tiled roofline.

Casa Batllo:  Playful windows and color, looking through textured glass.

 Casa Batllo:  Window in the light well.

Palau Guell:  Parabolic arch overload in the incredible main hall.

Palau Guell:  Chimneys over the city skyline.

After a few miles of hoofing it through the city I managed to find the final destination of my touring today in the gothic quarter:  Santa Maria del Mar, a lovely classic Spanish gothic church that was built in the 14th century.  It was worth the effort, as it lives up to its reputation as the most beautiful classic church in the city.  A far cry from the neo-gothic Sagrada Familia only a mile away, it shares many architectural elements of the old cathedrals we visited in France but with Spanish style and flair.  It was certainly a gift to have the opportunity to enjoy several minutes of peace sitting and absorbing the grandeur.  Metro home, red wine, cooked dinner and waited for the rest of the crew to get home.  

-N

The rest of us went back to the labyrinth park and enjoyed the beautiful weather, the eucalyptus and olive trees and a wooded hike that felt and smelled like California or Greece.  Before returning home, we stopped back at Parc Guell to show my mom Gaudi's outdoor wonders.  - E

Gaudi Love Fest

First thing this morning, my mom, Madeleine, Henry and I visited Gaudi's Sagrada Familia cathedral.   I had toured this cathedral 20 years ago, and there has been a lot of progress since then.  I remember it as more of a shell, no roof, and we were able to explore through the towers, up and down spiral staircases.  No more free-run of the towers now.  It is looking quite finished, although it is expected to take 20 more years to complete.  It is visually stunning, and I appreciate the fresh take on the traditional cathedral.  What a cool thing for one's life work and passion to be carried on after death.  Gaudi died after being struck by a streetcar in 1926.  He had worked on this cathedral for 40+ years.

Madeleine took this picture of the stained glass in Sagrada Familia.

Madeleine also took this one of the Nativity facade of Sagrada Familia.
Very joyous with lots of images from nature.

After meeting Nik and Sully and having an amazing lunch (by far the best lunch of our trip!), my mom and I headed off for more Gaudi worship.  First we toured the Palau Guell, the house that Gaudi built (1886-1890) for his good friend and patron, Eusebi Guell, who also later commissioned Parc Guell.  Palau Guell apparently just finished a 21 year renovation, and it is gorgeous!  A very ornate, but so very appealing  palace, with carriage house and stables built into the lower floors.  As my mom pointed out, Gaudi must have appreciated having such wealthy clients so that he could really express himself using the finest materials.  

Entryway to Palau Guell, where guests would enter in horse-drawn carriages.  This is a caternary (parabolic)  arch, the upside down shape a chain makes when hanging from its ends.  Gaudi used a LOT of these.    

Domed ceiling in the main hall of Palau Guell.

Next we toured Casa Batllo, a house which Gaudi rennovated in 1906.  This house is full of surprises, lots of carved wood, curving surfaces, fish scale and water designs, gorgeous windows and doors and stained glass, innovative and wonderful design elements.  The facade, the large back patio and roof top chimneys are highly decorated in the trencadis style, mosaics of broken ceramic pieces, perfect for covering curved surfaces.  For those of you who visited us in Berkeley, this reminded me of the "fish house", and I bet that architect was a Gaudi fan too.

Facade of Casa Batllo.  So much to love.

Maryann on the back patio of Casa Batllo.

Light shaft inside the Casa Batllo.  The tiles are lighter blue at the bottom and transition to darker blue at the top, so that when viewed with light from above, the colors look the same.  The windows get larger toward the bottom, where more light is needed.  Gaudi thought of everything; nothing was left to chance.

Hallway in the attic.  More caternary arches that look like whale bones.  

Some of Gaudi's famous chimneys.  Why not make chimneys beautiful?

View of roofline/ top of facade, Casa Batllo.

I am sending Nik to see the Palau and the Casa tomorrow, so he can continue the Gaudi love fest!

- E

Parc de la Ciutadella & Parc del Laberint D'Horta

I'm really going to miss these excellent days of leisure, fun and exploration.  What a treat this has been.  Erica, Maryann, Mad and Hen headed out early to Sagrada Familia and Sully and I had some time to ourselves.  We were out the door early by our standards, about 10:15.  The temperature was super comfortable this morning and we appreciated the change.  On the way to the Metro I saw no less than two different tables at neighborhood cafes at which folks were drinking beer.  We walked/skuuted to our usual Poble Sec stop, hopped on L3 a few stops to Arc de Triumf and walked toward the Parc de la Ciutedella.  

On the way we watched several apparently retired men playing petanque.  I was super impressed with their skill, especially the fellow in white on the left.  No beer was involved but they meowed like cats a lot, especially when young ladies wandered by.  Sully's interested waned after about 10 minutes so we rambled on. 

 Made our way down to the beautiful Parc de la Ciutadella, an old park with some cool fountains, sculpture, the local zoo, loads of open space and at least two playgrounds, based on our personal experience.  While at one of the playgrounds I was chatting with a sweet grandmother who gently reminded me that doce (12) is "dothay" not "dosay" here in Spain.  Just about when I get it figured out it'll be time to go home.  Met up with the rest of the crew and made our way to to a breezy little outdoor cafe that met all of our needs, those being cold drinks, pizza and paella.  Lunch really was amazingly tasty.  Erica and I couldn't finish our shared "gustacion del dia" of gazpacho soup, tomato/olive oil bread, salami, cheese, dried ham, fried calamari, Catalan fried potatoes with cream sauce, garlic shrimp, salad and sangria.  Our soup came to the table first and Maryann insisted we start eating before everyone else so that our soup doesn't get hot.

We split again, with E & Maryann heading off for some Gaudi architecture while the kids and I took the nearby Tram (which is what we call a streetcar at home) to the end of the line at Sully's begging.  It also allowed Henry's much needed 15 minute siesta, during which he did sleep soundly.  Transferred a couple of times and made it to the northern part of the city to the Mundet station.  On the way to our second park of the day, we passed the Velodrom D'Horta, an outdoor bike racing track.  The velodrome was built in 1984 as the first of Barcelona's construction projects in preparation for the bid for the 1992 Summer Olympics.  Unfortunately it was closed, as I'd have loved to have seen Sully on it.  We did a little climbing to get a good view of the cool, smooth, wavy wood track.

Walked up hill, got the daily ice cream fix, waited out a 10 minute thunderstorm which cooled everything down nicely and made it to one of the highlights of our entire trip, the Parc del Laberint D'Horta.  It is a child's dream (or maybe nightmare?) and was started in the late 18th century.  With hedges about 10 feet tall, there's no cheating here.  I imagined a cute trip through an easy maze.  First trip with all four of us was 45 minutes, counting appeasing the little man with Spanish doritos, tang water and being carried part of the way.  Plus, it was tricky!  But really cool.  There were wires running though the hedges so you couldn't cheat (not that we were ever considering) and we kept running into other folks sharing our challenges.

We regrouped from above and refueled.  The kids sat and I did it once more myself to prove to them that it'd be much faster the second time.  Then Madeleine and Henry had to beat my time, of course.  During their first trip alone, I chatted with a friendly young couple, she of Canada and he a native of Barcelona.  She'd already been through by herself and he was getting ready to go.  As he knew they were trying for a good time and I had noticed his Barcelona marathon shirt, I asked him if he would consider an escort by a couple of knowledgeable guides.  He ran the maze with them and had a blast.  First time (starting from this viewpoint, down the stairs and around 180 degrees, then through the maze and back up the stairs) was 3 minutes 11 seconds, including a couple of missteps.  Last and world record-setting time for the trio (who were trying to beat 3 minutes) was 2 minutes and 30 seconds!  Sully wanted no part of going through again so he and I watched and cheered them on.  Their new friend's name is pronounced something like "Diwad".  He seemed to enjoy as much as they did.

The victors celebrate yet again.  A really magical experience.  Why can't we have one of these at home?

Even Madeleine admitted to being tired out and asked to go home.  Easy single line metro ride home.  Dinner.  Bath.  Loud shouts, car horns and firecrackers outside at 10 pm!?!!?!  Sure enough, FC Barcelona was playing in the Super Cup and their star, Messi, had scored the team's first goal against FC Porto to take the lead in the final game.  We watched the second half to witness the local team dominate for a 2-0 win.  A great day was had by all.  Tomorrow I may sneak off for some solo touring myself.

-N