A day in busy San Jose

Pre-Colombian, thousand year old gold figurines

We finished a busy week of studying, exams, reveled in some great results, packed, cleaned up the house and drove three hours to Costa Rica's busy capital city, San Jose.  After a celebratory dinner last night and some sleep, we ventured into the center of San Jose.  Our crew was impressed by the traffic and the throngs of pedestrians.  My impression is that very few people travel to Costa Rica with the primary goal of visiting San Jose, most well known for its congestion, pollution and urban grit.  For visitors, passing through is often viewed as a price to pay in order to experience the natural beauty of the country.  Today we wanted to experience some of what the city has to offer.

Teatro Nacional de Costa Rica

Our first stop was the beautiful Teatro Nacional de Costa Rica, built in 1897 to showcase opera performances.  More reminiscent of European theaters than of the Costa Rican beauty to which we're accustomed, its reverence as a national treasure seems easily justified.  It is surely a one-of-a-kind in Costa Rica and surprisingly intimate and ornate, especially with original hardwood floors and artistic leanings in meshing themes of local scenes and animals with classically styled frescoes painted by period Italian artists.

The Gold Staircase

Which country are we in again?

Second stop was the nearby and much anticipated Museo del Oro Precolombino, purported to showcase one of the finest collections of Precolombian gold works anywhere.  We successfully sweet-talked the ticket booth lady into the "National" prices because we're living here and did tremendously enjoy this museum.   The museum center itself is built down into the ground under a plaza and is architecturally quite interesting in its use of triangles and unique angles.  The original plan was to house the museum in an above-ground building but this plan was scrapped in order to preserve views of the adjacent Teatro Nacional.  An underground location also facilitated an almost bunker-like security for the collections of gold works.

Unique underground space with use of natural light

The collections of old coins, hundreds of ornamental gold figures and medallions were most impressive indeed, especially considering the specialization of labor required to make these intricate pieces utilizing wax and clay molds.  And about a thousand years ago or so.  The figurines often were used in spiritual ceremonies and incorporated elements of natural world.

Iguana?  Sea creature?

A temporary museum gallery exhibited depictions of Central American felines through art and everyday tools.  A popular use of the cat design was in the melate, flat stone structures traditionally used to grind corn.  For what it's worth, there are six large cat species in Costa Rica.

Feline melate of years ago

A Tica artist's works were also showcased.  I found them whimsical but often dark, a theme not necessarily a common part of the warm latin culture here.

Los Peces (The Fishes)

We managed to track down some Mediterranean food in a small mall to whet Henry's palette for a gyro.  More walking and a day of museum going eventually wore our crew down, but not so much that we couldn't be revived by some POPS ice cream, and a few clowns.

One of the many clowns around town today

Chowing down on Costa Rican Mediterranean food

A very clever and funny street performing clown happened to start up his schtick very close to where we were sitting.  His antics were hilarious and appropriately resulted in a hat full of colones.

¡Que chistoso!

A cab ride back to the hotel took us through the busy market district of San Jose and was followed by a dip in the pool in the rain.  Tomorrow our adventure continues as we venture back to the States for the first time as a family.  Florida and reverse culture shock, here we come.