Arenal

Amazingly, picking up Erica and the kids, renting a car and getting on the road could not really have gone much more smoothly.  Taking the advice of our trusted and well traveled friends Tim, Wendy and Natalie, we opted for a regular car, not a 4x4, which is more expensive, might attract more attention and isn't absolutely required.  Or so we hope.

All but the last 11 km of the road to the famous Arenal (volcano) Natonal Park is paved.  We left busy San Jose and left the Pan American Highway at San Ramon.  The pace slowed and the lovely Costa Rican countryside began to unfold.  Many slow, curvy roads and idyllic rural scenes.  Each small town seemed to have its share of cows, a school and a typically colorful church.  After grabbing some snacks and lunch food to keep with us in La Fortuna we began the dirt road phase of the trip, with only a little initial anxiety. 

Soon thereafter we spotted a few toucans in a nearby tree and our excitement level grew quickly.  About a half an hour later, and most importantly, before dark, we arrived at the Arenal Observatory Lodge.  We had survived the road without much difficulty, with all car parts intact and entered the grounds of one of the most spectacular places I've ever been.  The lodge was initially a Smithsonian research station due to the fact that it’s located a mere 1.7 miles from the crater itself.  We were reassured that the location is safe because there is a river between the lodge and the crater.  None of us had ever been so close to an active volcano that routinely spews steam, rocks and lava.  As the story goes, prior to the rather large eruption in 1968, the volcano was thought to be a mountain.  In the days preceding the large eruption, many animals were noted to be leaving the area in large numbers.  We enjoyed the views, ate and hit the sack for some much-needed rest for weary travelers.

We feasted on breakfast that included fresh pineapple, papaya, mango and watermelon.  These fruits and their juices are cheap and widespread.  We joined a free (!) tour of the 60 acre resort.  Before the tour even began, several howler monkeys were spotted high up in the canopy.  Never before has an animal been more appropriately named.  Though only about two feet tall, males produce an extremely impressive dog bark/zombie scream/nightmarish noise that can be heard more than a mile away.  An exciting introduction for us all to the fauna of Costa Rica.  

The walk through the grounds was absolutely fascinating and included exotic birds, snakes, coffee plants, tropical flowers, prehistoric ferns, vines to swing on, a waterfall and even several pizotes who are related to raccoons.  One tour highlight was getting to know a gregarious Costa Rican family, Albero, Xinia and their daughter who must’ve been 9 or so.  All the conversation was in Spanish and we’ve promised to keep in touch by email.

Nuevos amigos.

One of the pizote crew.

We wasted away the afternoon swimming in the pool, from where it’s easy to watch steam erupt from the volcano.  A favorite diversion of our crew for sure.  In the span of a single hour, Sullivan progressed from stubborn refusal to put his face in the water to swimming on his own with a snorkel and mask!  

Bridge to the pool.

Local wildlife.

Many more critters were spotted including some impressive lizards.  We enjoyed the sport of thunderstorm watching from the lodge and noted how much harder it rains here than at home in Portland.  But it’s still warm!  At night again we couldn’t see any actual lava spewing from the volcano but slept without this fear as well.  Would love to return to this special place again.