In the Andes of Perú GeoTour: The adventure of a lifetime

Excited to begin

Soon after having decided to travel in South America, we became aware of the only organized GeoTour in South America:  In the Andes of Perú.  For anyone unaware, geocaching is an adventure sport that uses GPS technology in the outdoors in a modern treasure hunt (see https://www.geocaching.com/play for more information).  A GeoTour is simply a set of hidden geocaches in a certain location.  There are several GeoTours all over the world and the first one in South America is located in a remote valley, high up in the Andes of Perú (https://www.geocaching.com/play/geotours/andes-of-peru).  This was set up about a year ago by a Peace Corps Volunteer with the hope of attracting more visitors to this beautiful part of rural Perú, with an additional goal of stimulating the local economy.  We decided this was something we had to do and made it happen.  We arranged our tour through Keteka, specializing in authentic tours and activities in Latin America.  Here is the link to the geocaching tour: Keteka Geocache Tour

Madeleine takes a view of the Yanamarca Valley

Erica had arranged the tour in advance and we were told that our local guide would set up a hotel for us in addition to a driver to shuttle us around.  We had the name of the hotel, information about how to find the bus to get us to the Yanamarca Valley as well as some faith that it would all work out just fine as we boarded a bus for the 7 hour ride from Lima.

One of many burros seen in the Yanamarca Valley

Without any hitches, but with some impressive altitude-induced headaches, we arrived to our hotel in Acolla, in the Yanamarca Valley, at 11,450 feet.  The hotel was as basic as was advertised but owned by a lovely and friendly family.  Soon after, our guide Abel (also known as Chasqui) came to meet us and his enthusiasm quickly became clear.  He is a local treasure, a fierce advocate for the region, extremely knowledgeable and a marathon runner as well as an artist.  He was heavily involved in setting up the GeoTour and he significantly enriched our adventure.

Our crew, just above the valley floor

The plan was to begin the next morning, getting a sense for the region and looking for several geocaches on or near the valley floor so that we could acclimatize before heading up to higher elevations.  During the two following days, we would be hiking to progressively higher elevations.  In total we'd be spending three days and four nights.

In action at the Acolla Music Conservatory

Everyone felt pretty well at the start of our first full day so we began our quest in earnest.  Chasqui and our driver, Humberto, picked us up at 8 am.  Surprises ensued.  For me, the first surprise came at the Acolla Music Conservatory, as we learned that this area (as remote and rural as it is) is well known for its production of musicians.  As a result, there are several local orchestras and the school is home to many students enrolled in the three year program.  This is not what we expected in this part of the world, where agriculture is the main industry.  The musical education is apparently of high quality.

Chasqui and Nik explore an 800 year old well

One of the draws to the area are the innumerable ruins, many of which have geocaches nearby.  The idea is to find the geocache, explore the area and learn something in the process.  A recurring theme throughout our time was that the early indigenous peoples, the Xauxa (pronounced shau-sha) were defeated and/or killed by the Incas who were then defeated and/or killed by the Spaniards in the 1500s.  The remaining Xauxa ruins date to the 1200s, making them about 800 years old.

Acolla's cemetery

Our first day of hunting took us to many places including Acolla's cemetery, which included white crosses for children and black crosses for adults in addition to stone containers for some of its members.  The nearby town of Marco is well known for its 12 small but very different chapels, one for each of its neighborhoods.  Every year in February, there is a large traditional dance competition and each chapel sports a team.  This festival is called the Carnaval Marqueno and is registered with UNESCO as a world heritage cultural treasure.  Again, this was initially surprising to me given the small size and relatively remote location of this valley.  Of course it was geocaches that took us to many of the interesting and colorful chapels.

Chapel of Chaupi, complete with its clarinets

At every opportunity, Chasqui introduced us to many of the local folks who often appeared absolutely shocked to see us but were soon eager to talk.

Colegio students in Marco, relaxing before a school ceremony

Marco's church, with Spanish influence evident

This woman was happier than she looks here after we gave her some Tylenol for her knee pain.

We rounded out the first day with a drive to a bit higher elevation for our first glimpse of the centuries-old and extremely long Inca Trial.  The first day was a great success, with 13 geocaches found and three exhausted kids.

The Inca Trail, running across the hill

We were again blessed with sunny, though cool weather at the start of our second day.  Before entering any of the sacred ruins, we stopped at a special spring that sounds like "neaween" in Quechua.  Loosely translated as "eye", it represents a sacred spot from which water flows without a known source in the earth.  Chasqui led us in a ritual involving thanking "Pachamama" (Mother Earth), individually saying any words we'd like to share and tossing coca leaves to the water as an offering before entering the sacred ruin sites.  The idea is to unify ourselves with the earth and the sacred sites.  This was very special and will likely be a defining moment of our travels.

Erica thanks Pachamama

We drove on to Sacas, a small pueblo at about 11,800 feet (3600 meters).  After a quick bite to eat, we began to climb towards the ruins of Shutuy Marca.  As a frame of reference for us, having lived in Oregon in the United States, this was like starting a hike just a bit higher of the summit of Mount Hood (11,250 feet) and heading up from there.  As advertised, the climbing was steep and tough for those of us not yet fully used to the altitude.  But absolutely beautiful.

Climbing above Sacas

Climbing vista

Steep, rocky climbing

Chasqui was taken by Henry's hat, specially ordered for him by his grandfather Mike, also a banjo player.  Written in Spanish, it has a picture of a banjo and translates as "Will play for food.  Will stop playing for money".

At times the going was slow and there was some significant complaining from Sullivan (age 7), so we took several breaks.  At least three times we talked to folks working up in the mountains.  This young guy was 10, was traveling with his three dogs and had driven his sheep up the trail to graze.  He had been listening to his radio along the way and reluctantly practiced some English with us at Chasqui's urging.  I can't remember his name but we shared some pretzels with him.

Young sheepherder

We chatted with this woman who was working in some potato fields high up on the mountain with her family.  She was concerned that it might start to rain.  Most of the small fields in the region are owned by the folks who work them, at least to our understanding.  To me it is a pretty great experience to be able to communicate with people so culturally different from us, thanks to speaking some Spanish, as rough as it may be.  The kids were all a bit more reluctant to talk to people we met, though.

Mother and child, held together by the traditional manta

After some more effort, we all arrived to the top and enjoyed looking through the 800 year old ruins at the summit of the hill at about 13,290 feet (4050 meters).  Some were in remarkable condition given their age and method of construction using just rocks and earth.  The location of the pueblo at the top of the hill afforded us great views but offered a method of defense for the Xauxa who settled the site initially.

Madeleine enjoys the view from her perch

Vista from Shutuy Marca

Upon beginning our descent, it started to rain.  Though we didn't get too wet, the steep and slick hillside was challenging for an already-tired crew.  There were no major injuries and no stream crossing proved to be impossible.  The rain dissipated and we happily returned to the waiting car after our five hour adventure, tired.  Several more geocaches had been logged, including 3 on this particular climb.

Exciting descent

Chasqui, Madeleine and I headed out on another shorter and slightly less steep climb to the ruins of Tunanmarca, while Erica and the boys waited with Humberto in the car.  The site was stunning, having formerly been the home to 10,000-12,000 Xauxa nearly 1000 years ago.  They had set up their defenses exceedingly well but the clever Incas successfully defeated them not by attacking but instead by cutting off their lone water supply.  Several more geocaches were found but we paid our dues by being pretty wet and cold by the time we were done.  We were very happy to have tea and hearty soup for dinner before going to bed early on New Year's Eve.

Wet descent from Tunanmarca

Given the degree of fatigue from the younger members of our crew from the previous day's hike and a steady stream of fireworks through the night, the boys stayed back at the hotel with Erica who would have rather come out hiking again for our last day in the Yanamarca Valley.

Another beautiful morning

From the town of Cachi Cachi, we hiked from about 3600 meters to the summit of Aukimalka at 4100 meters (13,450 feet).  As was true the day before, the reward for a steep hike was views, ruins and more geocaches.  This trek was especially beautiful.

A moment of rest above Cachi Cachi

Despite complaining legs, we were able to ascend pretty quickly and soon reached the summit.  This particular site is known for its (again, about 800 year old) momias, which are small circular round buildings in which the dead were buried.  At this particular site, the residents apparently even would take the mummified bodies out of the structures once or twice a year and carry them to special ceremonies before returning them to their resting places.  Several of the momias still have bones and skulls in them.

Momia high above Cachi Cachi

Momia

In this vicinity there is an astounding cave called Walimalka.  Apparently almost unknown to the outside world, it contains 600 year old Incan drawings and paintings that are estimated (reportedly by C-14 dating) to be about 10,000 years old.  For us this was a special place.

La Cueva Walimalka 

Incan soldier

Incan carving--possibly a mathematical tool?

Very old llama rendition

Endless vistas

One of the last stops of the day was to the town of Pomacancha.  It turns out that Jan. 1, 2015 is the first day in the terms of all the new presidents of the local districts.  Chasqui took us into the municipal building and we met with the President of Pomacancha.  Dressed to kill, sitting in his spotless office, President Aldo Contreras Mallma eagerly took notes as Chasqui described geocaching and their hopes that it will bring more visitors to this part of the country.  International diplomats from the United States were a huge surprise for this new president on the very first day of his four-year term.

President Mallma

Chasqui suggested a photo op to start the new presidential term

Humberto navigated a switchback-filled road to the mirador high above Pomacancha, where we found two more geocaches and enjoyed a big view one last time.

On the hunt, with Pomacancha far below

In all we found 35 of the 44 caches, enough to earn the much-coveted Andes of Perú GeoTour GeoCoin, a souvenir of having completed the tour.  We were only the fifth group to have come on this GeoTour and the first foreign family with kids (that Chasqui knows of) who has come to visit Acolla.  He really made this a fantastic trip for us.  It will not be soon forgotten and is very highly recommended for anyone looking for big adventure off the beaten path.  Many thanks to Chasqui and Humberto!

GeoCoin presentation ceremony